A new Kenyan coffee for us, we were bowled over by the flavours in this AA selection from the Gatugi factory and are thrilled to be able to share it with you.
The Farmers
Around 750 smallhold coffee farmers are responsible for growing the coffee that ultimately is processed and collated at the Gatugi coffee factory in Kenya’s famed Nyeri region. With an average of 250 trees planted on around 0.5 acres the most popular cultivars being tended to are SL28 and SL34, with Batian and Ruiru 11 planted amongst these offering more resistance and hardiness. A coffee tree here produces between 5 and 10kg of coffee cherries each season, and farmers will hand pick and deliver their harvest to the wet mill for processing. The region boasts phosphorus rich, red volcanic soils and altitudes up to 1,890 metres.
The Washing Station
Gatugi coffee factory was built in 1979 near Karima forest. It is part of the Othaya Coffee Farmers’ Co-operative Society, which was registered 23 years prior in 1956. Once coffee cherries are delivered to the mill during harvest they are first hand sorted and floated to remove any less-than-perfect fruit. They use a traditional depulping machine to remove the cherry skins before the mucilage covered parchment coffee is fermented for up to 72 hours, allowing the native microbiome to break down this pectin-rich sugary layer. After scrubbing and washing the clean parchment spends a further 24 hours soaking This aids in homogenisation across the coffee, and in all likelihood involves a second, milder fermentation stage. Soaking, in our experience, improves the stability and longevity of the coffee’s cup profile. Once fermented, washed and soaked, the clean parchment coffee is slowly dried on raised beds to an optimal moisture level before it is stored in GrainPro bags prior to milling at the Othaya FCS’ own dry mill in Gatuyaini.
The FCS
Othaya FCS oversee 19 different coffee washing stations in Nyeri. Their mission statement is “Empowering Coffee Farmers Through Value Addition”. When they first established themselves in the 1950s it comprised 250 members, which has now grown to over 15,000. They maintain a nursery of coffee plants to provide to their contributing smallhold growers to aid renovation and renewal of their coffee plots. They hold agronomical seminars and workshops as well as provide equipment and fertilisers to their members. Factory managers receive regular training to ensure quality control procedures are clear and protocols are being adhered to, so they can maintain their reputation for producing top quality lots that receive premium prices. Broader social work extends to construction of footbridges and holding free medical screening camps at Aga Khan hospital.
